The circular form of the ring has long symbolised eternity, representing an unbroken bond of love and commitment. This powerful symbolism has made engagement rings a cherished tradition across cultures and centuries. From ancient betrothal customs to the diamond-dominated market of today, the history of engagement rings reveals evolving social shifts and cultural practices.
The tradition of wearing a ring on the third finger dates back to antiquity, based on the belief that a vein, the vena amoris, ran directly from this finger to the heart. This placement signified devotion and served as a reminder of the responsibilities of marriage. Additionally, the left hand was less frequently used, making it a more practical choice for preserving a delicate piece of jewellery.
Medieval Era
During the Medieval period, rings were exchanged as symbols of betrothal and often carried both sentimental and contractual significance. They served as both tokens of affection and tangible representations of formal marriage agreements, reinforcing the legal and social commitments between families.
One of the most popular styles during this time was the gimmel ring. Gimmel rings featured two or more interlocking bands that, when fitted together, formed a single ring. This symbolised the union of two lives. Another betrothal tradition involved breaking a plain ring in two, with each partner keeping one half and wearing it on a chain. On their wedding day, the two bands were reunited, and if they matched, it was proof that the commitment had remained intact.
Posy rings were also popular. These simple yet meaningful gold bands were engraved on the inner band with romantic phrases, poetry, or devotional messages, often in Latin or French and sometimes with religious connotations. Common phrases included; "Vous et nul autre" (You and no other), "Mon cœur avez" (You have my heart), "De tout mon cœur" (With all my heart), and "God above increase our love".
The earliest recorded diamond engagement ring dates back to 1477, when Maximilian I, Archduke of Austria, proposed to Mary of Burgundy with a ring set with thin, elongated diamonds arranged in an "M" shape. This event marked a turning point in the history of engagement rings, sparking a trend among European nobility to wear diamond rings. Before this, engagement rings were primarily crafted in gold and set with coloured gemstones such as rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, as diamonds were exceptionally rare and difficult to cut.
The rise of diamond rings among the nobility reflected the increasing association of marriage with wealth, status, and dynastic alliances rather than just practical or legal arrangements. While the majority of people in the medieval era could not afford such luxuries, the tradition of exchanging rings as a token of love and commitment laid the foundation for the engagement ring customs that we know today.
Early Modern Era
Another early example of an engagement ring was presented at the Palace of Holyrood upon the marriage of Mary, Queen of Scots, and Lord Darnley in 1565. Mary is said to have received a ring set with a diamond enclosed within a red enamel border. Diamonds were highly prized for their perceived strength and unbreakable nature, mirroring the ideals of an enduring marriage.
In contrast, her grandson, James II, proposed to his wife, Mary of Modena, with a gold band set with a ruby. Rubies were associated with passion and protection and were a fitting choice for a royal engagement. James and Mary’s reign was marked by turmoil, and when she was sent into exile, she was forced to part with most of her jewellery. She was, however, allowed to keep this ring, and she wore it for the remaining years of exile and widowhood at the Convent of the Visitandines in Chaillot.
William of Orange’s engagement ring to Mary II featured a gold band with a strap-and-buckle design, set with diamonds and enamelled in black. The buckle motif was symbolic of binding loyalty and steadfast commitment, further emphasised by the use of diamonds, which represented strength and eternal love. These royal engagement rings reflected the personal affections between the couples whilst also carrying deeper political and dynastic significance, reinforcing alliances and securing the future of the monarchy.
Georgian Era
The Georgian period marked a significant evolution in engagement ring design, reflecting the era's artistic sensibilities and technological advancements. Engagement rings remained rare and expensive, often reserved for the wealthy elite. Diamond-cutting techniques began to improve with the emergence of rose-cut and table-cut diamonds. To enhance their appearance and intensify their sparkle, diamonds and gemstones were often set in closed-back settings with silver or coloured foiling. Gold was the dominant metal, and silver was used for the settings.
Engagement rings were often styled with a larger central stone surrounded by small diamonds. These designs came in various shapes, with clusters of diamonds carefully arranged to maximise their visual impact. The central gemstone was either a diamond or a foiled “lesser” stone, such as topaz or quartz, or even a high-quality paste imitation. Bands set with gemstones all around or halfway were also popular and could be worn singly or stacked for added effect.
Symbolism played a crucial role in Georgian engagement rings, which often featured hidden messages or symbols of love and fidelity. Popular motifs included forget-me-nots, hearts, lover’s knots, and floral designs, each carrying specific meanings of love, fidelity, and devotion. Acrostic rings became a particularly romantic trend, where the first letter of each gemstone spelt out words like "REGARD" (ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby, diamond) or "DEAREST" (diamond, emerald, amethyst, ruby, emerald, sapphire, topaz). Some rings also featured hidden compartments or locket elements, allowing lovers to exchange and keep miniature portraits or locks of hair.
Victorian Era
The Victorian era witnessed significant transformations in engagement ring designs. This period is divided into three distinct phases: the Romantic Period, the Grand Period, and the Aesthetic Period, each characterised by unique styles and motifs.
Queen Victoria's deep love for Prince Albert greatly influenced the Romantic Period, and engagement rings from this era reflected this spirit of devotion and sentimentality. Designs often featured hearts, bows, flowers, and nature-inspired motifs, each symbolising love, fidelity, and commitment. Coloured gemstones such as emeralds, rubies, and sapphires were favoured, while yellow gold was the metal of choice.
When Prince Albert proposed to Victoria with an emerald snake ring, the serpent motif surged in popularity, as the snake was seen as a symbol of eternal love and wisdom. Alongside serpents, lover’s knots and Claddagh rings became fashionable choices for engagement jewellery. Some rings also incorporated floral garlands or scrolling patterns, reflecting the era’s connection to nature and romance.
The Grand Period coincided with the death of Prince Albert in 1861, and the country went into a period of mourning. Consequently, engagement ring designs became more sombre and subdued. Dark gemstones such as onyx, jet, and garnet were prevalent, set in heavy, ornate designs. The use of black enamel and detailed metalwork reflected the era's gravitation towards more solemn aesthetics.
Reacting against the heaviness of the Grand Period, the Aesthetic Period embraced lightness and simplicity. Engagement rings featured more delicate designs, with an emphasis on asymmetry and naturalistic motifs like leaves, flowers, and birds. The use of mixed metals, including silver and gold combinations, became fashionable. Diamonds regained prominence, often showcased in refined settings that highlighted their brilliance without excessive ornamentation.
A major turning point in engagement ring trends came with the discovery of vast diamond mines in South Africa in 1867. This newfound abundance of diamonds made them more widely available, allowing a broader segment of society to wear diamond jewellery. These diamonds were often set in simple designs that emphasised their natural brilliance without additional decoration. As diamond-cutting techniques improved, enhancing their sparkle, solitaire settings and cluster arrangements that showcased the stone's fire and clarity became popular. This period set the stage for the continued popularity of diamonds in engagement rings, a trend that would only grow stronger in the Edwardian and Art Deco eras.
Edwardian Era
The Edwardian era marked a significant evolution in engagement ring design, characterised by elegance, refinement, and the innovative use of materials and techniques. One of the most notable developments was the rise of platinum as the preferred metal for settings. Advancements in metalworking made platinum more workable, and its strength allowed for the creation of delicate filigree settings, resulting in lace-like designs that were lighter than the heavier gold settings of previous periods.
Diamonds remained the gemstone of choice during this time, owing to improvements in cutting techniques. The old European cut offered a better light reflection, making diamonds appear more radiant than ever before. This brilliance was showcased in designs featuring milgrain detailing, scrollwork, and garland motifs, all contributing to the era's signature look of delicate detailing.
For the first time, engagement rings became widely popular not just among the aristocracy but also within the middle class. The tradition of giving a diamond engagement ring was now solidly established, reflecting both societal changes and the influence of prominent jewellers promoting diamond engagement rings. This period set the stage for the enduring association between diamonds and engagement rings that continues to this day.
Art Deco Era
The Art Deco era departed from the ornate and romantic styles of previous periods, favouring bold geometric patterns and striking contrasts. This reflected the period's embrace of modernism, technological advancements, and global cultural influences.
Art Deco rings are characterised by their architectural and symmetrical designs, often featuring clean lines and angular forms. Platinum allowed for elaborate settings that were both durable and delicate. Diamonds remained central, and coloured gemstones such as sapphires, emeralds, and rubies were frequently used as accents to provide vibrant contrasts. The use of calibré-cut stones was a hallmark of the period.
The Art Deco movement drew inspiration from various sources, including modernist art, advancements in architecture, and global inspiration. This eclectic mix resulted in innovative and intriguing designs that reflected an increasingly interconnected world. For example, the discovery of King Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922 sparked a fascination with Egyptian themes. This fascination led to the incorporation of motifs such as the lotus flower, scarabs, and hieroglyphic-like patterns in jewellery designs.
The 1920s were marked by significant social changes, especially concerning women's roles and fashion. The modern, independent woman of the era embraced Art Deco styles, favouring engagement rings that reflected their desire for self-expression and departure from traditional norms. The strong, bold designs of Art Deco rings, with their emphasis on individuality and modernity, resonated with the liberated spirit of the time, making them a popular choice among the new generation.
Mid-Century
The 1940s and 1950s marked a transformative period in engagement ring design, influenced by cultural shifts, marketing innovations, and material availability. During the 1940s, engagement ring styles simplified, moving toward the classic diamond solitaire that remains popular today. This era was dominated by a major cultural shift in jewellery marketing.
In 1947, De Beers launched its iconic campaign, "A Diamond is Forever." This advertising campaign transformed the engagement ring market, solidifying the diamond solitaire as the ultimate style. De Beers' clever marketing convinced the world that a diamond engagement ring was an essential, lifelong investment and symbol of love.
By the 1960s, Hollywood's influence further cemented the glamorisation of diamonds, with celebrities and film stars showcasing large, dazzling engagement rings. Thanks to its exceptional brilliance, the round brilliant-cut diamond, perfected in the early 20th century, became the most sought-after shape. Notable examples from this era include Elizabeth Taylor's engagement ring from Richard Burton in 1968, featuring a 33.19-carat Asscher-cut diamond, known today as the Elizabeth Taylor Diamond. Additionally, Jacqueline Kennedy received a distinctive ring from John F. Kennedy in 1953, featuring a 2.88-carat diamond alongside a 2.84-carat emerald, reflecting the era's appreciation for unique and bold designs.
Throughout history, engagement rings have evolved in design, materials, and meaning, reflecting the cultural and societal shifts of each era. From the sentimental motifs of the past to the bold modern styles of today, they have remained a powerful symbol of love and commitment. While trends and traditions continue to change, the engagement ring endures as a token of devotion, carrying with it centuries of history and romance.
