The word "garnet" originates from the 14th-century Middle English word gernet, meaning "dark red". Revered since ancient times, garnets were worn by Egyptian pharaohs and prized by the Romans for their protective properties. These garnets were sourced from India, Sri Lanka, and parts of Africa, and travelled through ancient trade routes like the Silk Road.
During the Victorian period, garnets enjoyed immense popularity, with Bohemian garnets taking centre stage. Mined from the Bohemia region (now the Czech Republic), these deep red gemstones captivated both jewellers and wearers with their intense, blood-red hue, often associated with love, devotion, and vitality. Bohemian garnets were typically small, and jewellers used numerous stones in cluster design, arranged in floral or star motifs.
Edwardian Garnet & Pearl Necklace c.1910
The deep red tones of garnets also made them a favoured choice for mourning jewellery. Their sombre appearance aligned well with Victorian attitudes toward grief and remembrance. Paired with materials such as black enamel, jet, or vulcanite, garnets were frequently used in lockets, rings, and other keepsake pieces to memorialise loved ones.
Garnets remained popular during the Edwardian period, but design preferences shifted toward lighter, more delicate settings. Edwardian jewellers paired garnets with diamonds or pearls to create a softer contrast, emphasising filigree and lace-like patterns. Garnet cabochons, known as "carbuncles," were particularly popular for their smooth, glowing surface.
Victorian Demantoid Garnet Harp Brooch c.1900
Garnets come in a variety of types and colours beyond the well-known deep red. Demantoid garnets were first discovered in the Ural Mountains of Russia in the early 19th century and quickly gained fame for their exceptional brilliance and fire, rivalling that of diamonds. Their vibrant green hue and beauty made them a favourite of Russian crown jeweller Peter Carl Fabergé, who incorporated them into many designs.
Tsavorite garnets are another stunning green variety of garnet, prized for their striking green colour. They were first discovered in Tanzania in 1967 by British geologist Campbell Bridges and later named after the Tsavo National Park in Kenya, where additional deposits were found. The gemstone was officially introduced to the international market in 1974 by Tiffany & Co., which helped establish its reputation as a highly desirable and luxurious gem.
Edwardian Garnet Bracelet c.1910
Some rare garnets exhibit colour-change effects, similar to Alexandrite. These garnets appear green or blue in daylight and shift to reddish or purplish tones under incandescent light. Garnets displaying an iridescent, rainbow-like play of colours have been found in Japan and Mexico.
Garnet belongs to the silicate mineral group, which includes varieties such as almandine, pyrope, spessartine, grossular, tsavorite and hessonite. While all share a common cubic crystal structure, their chemical compositions create an array of different colours. Depending on type, its hardness ranges from 6.5 to 7.5 and it has fair to good toughness. Garnets also exhibit a high refractive index and a vitreous lustre, giving them a living brilliance.
Victorian Garnet Knot Stickpin c1890
Proper care is essential for preserving the beauty and longevity of antique garnets. Clean them gently with warm soapy water and a soft cloth or toothbrush, rinsing thoroughly and drying with a lint-free cloth. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners, which may damage delicate antique settings or garnets with fractures, as well as steam cleaning, which can weaken older mountings. Storing garnet jewellery separately in a soft pouch or lined box helps protect it from scratches and other damage.
We have a large selection of antique and vintage garnet jewellery at Thomas Glover. With our collection spanning the Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco periods, we have something to suit every taste and occasion. We invite you to explore our garnet jewellery online or visit us at our Shrewsbury townhouse.
